Here we take you through a complete detail step by step of our full detail.
We starting with a Foam bath to remove dirt and dust.
Your vehicle then receives a thorough hand wash, including wheel clean, under guards, Engine bay and door jambs.
We assess the condition of your paintwork and decide what type of paint correction is required (ranging from 1-5 stage paint correction), firstly we ‘Clay bar’ the paintwork to remove any contamination, and then begin our machine compounding steps. this will remove scratches and swirls, machine polish to enhance gloss, and Carnauba wax/Sealant/Coating to finish off.
Then it’s on to the interior - A full vacuum, followed by fabric steam clean or leather clean and conditioning if applicable.
All vinyl surfaces are cleaned and rejuvenated, vents dusted and interior and exterior windows cleaned.
A pleasant deodorizing scent is applied to the interior (yes we give you a choice of fragrances), and can also include an essential oil based diffuser treatment. Tyres, and all exterior vinyl/rubber surfaces are treated with Meguiar’s products for long lasting effects.
Look at the shine on the paintwork!
A full detail can take around 6 hours depending on the condition of the vehicle. Perfection can't be rushed!
Whether we are washing a show car, or a tradie’s ute, we use the same technique every time. Why? Because it is THE best method to ensure your paintwork doesn’t get micro scratches in it. At Intensity we are more than happy to share our secrets so your car can look its best! Firstly, we will list the products you ideally should have in your arsenal, and then go on to the process.
1/ A pressure washer – why? Because it mixes air with water to blast the dirt and dust off your car, unlike a hose that ‘pushes’ the dirt over your car.
2/ TWO buckets! The two bucket method is the preferred method for all professional detailers, one contains just water for rinsing your wash-mitt, and the other contains the shampoo.
3/ A grid guard. This inexpensive product will save you so much grief, as when placed in the bottom of a bucket it stops the wash mitt from coming into contact with the dirt sitting on the bottom of the bucket !
4/ Foam gun. This is a life saver for all car enthusiasts, a small amount of good quality car shampoo (We use Meguiars Gold class carnauba wash) in the foam gun will remove a large percentage of dust and dirt before you even touch the car – remember, the less dirt on the paintwork, the less scratches you can put in the paintwork.
5/ A good quality wash-Mitt, made from micro-fibre. (No sponges!)
6/ A good quality micro-fibre drying towel.(No chamois!)
7/ A good quality spray-wax, such as Meguiars ‘Final Inspection’ used in conjunction with a micro-fibre cloth to remove any streaks.
1/ Thoroughly rinse the whole car with the pressure washer to remover as much dirt as possible.
2/ Clean the wheels before touching the car, less cross-contamination! (we will go into wheel cleaning in another blog!)
3/Attach the foam gun to the pressure washer and coat the entire car, then leave to dwell for 3-4 minutes.
4/ After dwell time, rinse off the foam, which will remove a large portion of the dirt and dust.
5/Starting from the top, use the wash-mitt to gently wash the paintwork, rinsing in the clean water bucket after every panel. Leave sill panels to last, as that is where the majority of the dirt is.
6/Rinse off soap with pressure water, again starting from the top to bottom of car.
7/ Use your micro-fibre towel to gently dry the paintwork, again top to bottom in that order. Use very little pressure.
8/ If you want that ‘streak free’ finish, go over the car with a ‘Final Inspection’ type product, or ‘Waterless wax’ to top up your protection!
Does your car’s paintwork look like this?
Swirl marks are not ‘part of the paintwork’ as some detailers claim, but the result of incorrect techniques when washing or polishing.
At Intensity car detailing we can remove the swirls and give it that lasting ‘Wet-look’ shine.
This can be a very complicated area to dissect, however if you look at the cost versus result it’s actually quite simple!
Wax (normally a Carnauba wax) is best suited to when you are quite happy to spend the time on your car to achieve a great gloss level, and do it regularly (i.e. every 3-4 months) Wax offers the least ‘Longevity’ of all paint protectants but makes up for that with enhanced gloss.
Sealants are a synthetic product that offers good gloss with even more longevity of anywhere up to 9 months depending on conditions (Is your car kept in a garage, are the conditions hot or cold etc.)
Ceramic coatings are a permanent coating applied to your vehicle, usually at a high cost (anywhere from $500 to $2000) This Nano-technology bonds to your paint and some companies claim it is scratch resistant. The down side is that it is permanent, so if it needs to be removed it may need to be sanded off, which isn’t good for your paintwork.
At Intensity Car Care Hervey Bay we have spent years testing and comparing the three and have come to the conclusion that one of the best ways to protect your car, whilst still achieving awesome gloss levels is to use Polymer sealants infused with natural Carnauba wax, a hybrid so to speak. It achieves an awesome ‘Pop’ on the paintwork whilst giving superior protection. If you are willing to wash the vehicle yourself using proper washing techniques (Or better still use our mobile car wash service!) then you can expect 12 months protection depending on conditions. Financially this is better for you the customer, and better for your car!
Swirl marks, buff marks (holograms) are a regular problem on today’s paint surfaces. Let’s brake down each defect and explain how they appear in the first place.
These generally appear due to poor washing techniques, either from using a brush at a car wash, or from not following the proper steps when washing the vehicle at home.
Buff marks occur when a compound is applied to the paint surface to remove defects, normally using an orbital polisher. In untrained hands, this can do a lot of damage including ‘Burning through’ the paintwork, (Actually removing the clear coat, more so on the edges of panels)
At Intensity Car Care, this will never happen. Our staff are fully trained with the latest technology, including Dual Action polishing, which eliminates ‘Buff marks’ when used correctly.
There is so much confusion around “Touchless laser washes’ that I thought I would spend some time explaining what they do.
Why go to a touchless laser-wash?
In theory, a laser wash can’t hurt your paintwork because it doesn’t touch the paint, no course brushes or mops etc….
But... at what cost??
Well let’s walk through the laser wash process The first step of most laser washes is a pre soak (first coat) then a second presoak. Why ? well without going into the chemistry of it the first pre soak is acidic, the second is alkaline.(as a rule) This is done so that the chemical solutions react with each other, basically “dissolving” the dirt.
All good so far….. or is it?
Lets take a minute to think about that. I like to compare paintwork to human skin, ie if you wouldn’t put it on your skin, don’t put it on your paintwork; after all, there is a real similarity between the two. Paintwork is thin and sensitive, just like the first layer of skin. It is susceptible to sun damage, acid rain, foreign contaminants and salt, just like your skin.